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When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” states the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.